Lamb Shank Ragù with Anson Mills Grits

Photo by John Kernick

from Gourmet, October 2009
via Jeanne Milligan

serves 5

For Lamb Ragù:
2 large lamb shanks (1 1/2 pounds each if possible)
rounded 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon black pepper, divided
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 cup chopped red onion
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup chopped plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped fresh oyster mushrooms or white mushrooms
1/4 cup chopped fennel bulb
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
2 1/2 cups chicken stock or reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup Bourbon
1/2 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon mild honey
1/2 cup chopped radicchio
1 scallion, chopped

For Grits:
1 1/2 cups chicken stock orreduced-sodium chicken broth
1 1/2 cups water
3/4 cup whole milk plus additional if necessary
1/2 cup quick-cooking grits (preferably Anson Mills)
1/2-pound piece Manchego cheese (preferably raw sheep's milk)
1 tablespoon sour cream
1 teaspoon fine sea salt

Pat lamb shanks dry and season with Kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 5-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Brown shanks on all sides, 6 to 7 minutes, then transfer to paper towels to drain. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pot, then cook onion, garlic, plum tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, celery, mushrooms and fennel with thyme, red pepper flakes and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Return lamb shanks to pot with stock, Bourbon, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and honey and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, stirring and turning lamb occasionally until meat is very tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Remove meat from bones, discarding bones, and skim fat from cooking liquid; then return meat to pot. Simmer ragu uncovered, stirring frequently for 15 minutes or longer to get desired consistency. Just before serving, stir in radicchio and scallion.

Make the grits while ragu finishes cooking. Bring stock, water and milk to a boil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan. Add grits in a stream, whisking, then cook over low heat, uncovered, stirring frequently until grits are tender and thickened to the consistency of loose oatmeal, about 20 minutes.

Toward end of cooking, finely grate one-fourth of cheese (1 cup) and add to grits along with sour cream, sea salt and pepper to taste. Stir until cheese has melted. If grits are too thick, stir in some additional milk.

Ragù without radicchio and scallion can be made 3 days ahead and chilled. Reheat, then add radicchio and scallion.

Serve ragu over grits and top with shavings of cheese. If you can't find good grits, polenta will work almost as well (cook according to package directions, and add cheese, sour cream and seasonings as indicated above).

This recipe is so good that it is well worth the effort.