The Annual Cookbook: Blog-Style: December 2008

Mix first five ingredients and let cool to lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in 1/4 cup warmwater (see instructions on package for temperature) and add along with beaten eggs to first mixture. Add flour, mix and gather into a ball. Turn dough in a bowl sprayed with vegetable spray, cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Knead dough briefly on floured board and roll to about 3/8 to 1/2-inch thick, cut rounds with a small biscuit cutter (2-inch), and place about 1 inch apart on a cookie sheet that has been lined with parchment paper. Cover with a towel and let rise until doubled, about one hour or so. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush tops with beaten egg/water mixture and sprinkle with sesame seeds or poppy seeds, or leave some plain. Bake for about 20 minutes, until golden. Place rolls on a rack and cool completely.

To make sandwiches, slice each roll, spread bottom half with butter and add a piece or two of ham. Spread top half with mustard/mayonnaise mixture, then place on top of ham. Heat rolls loosely covered with foil on a cookie sheet at 350 degrees until hot, or microwave, uncovered, 15 rolls at a time on a plate for about 1 minute.

These rolls also work well for mini hamburgers or with other sandwich fillings.

My mom and Ernita used to have a catering business out of our house called Just Cooks. These were one of their specialties and certainly a favorite of mine!

Onion Pie

from The New York Times, October 24, 2007 (Cheryl Rogowski)

adapted by Anne Halsted

serves 6 as a side course, 10 as appetizers

12 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 ounces saltine crackers (about 27)

1 1/2 pounds yellow onions, peeled, trimmed, halved lengthwise and thinly

sliced (about 4 1/2 cups)

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, divided

2 large eggs

3/4 cup heavy cream

6 ounces grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese (about 1 cup)

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Melt butter in a large skillet or sauté pan over low heat. Set aside. In a food processor, pulse saltines to fine crumbs and transfer to a medium bowl. Pour 5 tablespoons melted butter over crumbs and toss with fingertips or a rubber spatula until evenly coated. Press mixture firmly into a deep-dish 9-inch pie pan, using a second pie pan. If possible, compact them evenly against bottom and sides of pan.

Reheat remaining melted butter in skillet over medium-high heat until frothy. Add onions and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are evenly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer onions to pie pan, patting them down in an even layer on crust.

In a medium bowl, beat eggs with a whisk and add heavy cream and remaining salt, whisking gently to incorporate. Pour mixture slowly, in a thin stream, into center of onions in pie pan. Sprinkle grated cheese over top and place in oven. Bake until bubbly and slightly browned on top, 30 to 35 minutes.

Serve immediately in sliced wedges as a side course, or allow to cool and cut into small pieces to serve as a room temperature hors d'oeuvre.

We like this particularly well as an hors d'oeuvre! You can bake this in advance and reheat it with good results as well.

Tatin of Caramelized Leeks

from Eveline Saglibene

adapted by Judy O'Shea

serves 6 as a first course

3 tablespoons water, divided

4 ounces salted butter

salt and pepper

1 1/4 cups flour

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1/4 cup cream mixed with 1 tablespoon curry powder

2 tablespoons sugar

6 leeks (cleaned), white part only, cut into 3/4-inch long pieces

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter an 8-inch cake pan.

Heat 2 tablespoons of water and butter with a pinch of salt in a small pan. When it starts to boil, dump it into a mixing bowl and add the flour. Mix until homogeneous, roll into a ball, cover the pastry in a damp dish towel and put it in the refrigerator to rest.

For the caramel, heat the sugar with 1 tablespoon water in a non-stick pan until it turns amber colored. Take off the fire and quickly whip in the cream and curry mixture. Pour the caramel into the bottom of the buttered cake pan. Arrange the leek sections with a cut side up. Pack them closely since they'll shrink a bit. Salt and pepper them.

Roll out the pastry between sheets of plastic wrap into a circle slightly smaller than the cake pan; place on top of the leeks. Do not let the pastry touch the sides of the pan. Bake for about 45 minutes. While still hot, loosen the edges of the pastry with a knife, put a large serving plate on top and turn out the tatin on the serving plate. If any leeks stick, just rearrange them. Powder the top
with curry powder. Serve at room temperature, garnished with the chopped parsley.

Eveline served this as a first course on a warm summer evening on tables on the lawn, set with white linen at a thirteenth century château with a spectacular view of the Sorgue River Valley. Extraordinary!

Butter Lettuce, Mango, and Goat Cheese
with Mint Vinaigrette

from Bride & Groom: First and Forever Cookbook

via Sue Gilbert

serves 2

4 cups lightly packed torn butter lettuce leaves

1/2 cup roughly chopped mango (about 2 mangos)

3 tablespoons mint vinaigrette

1/4 cup macadamia nuts or pecans

2 tablespoons crumbled goat cheese

2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

Put the lettuce and mango in a large bowl and toss with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Divide the lettuce and mango mixture onto plates. Scatter the nuts, goat cheese and green onions on each plate.

This is a lovely and fresh tasting salad. You will have a lot of the vinaigrette left over and can use it as a sauce for lamb if you choose.

Mint Vinaigrette

from Bride & Groom: First and Forever Cookbook

via Sue Gilbert

3/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup tightly packed mint leaves

1/4 cup white vinegar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon honey

1/4 teaspoon salt

freshly ground pepper to taste

Combine olive oil and mint in ablender until pureed, about 15 seconds. Add vinegar, mustard, honey, salt and pepper and blend for about 5 seconds. Do not over blend or the vinaigrette will be too thick.

Goes with Butter Lettuce, Mango, and Goat Cheese Salad. It can also be used to accompany lamb.

Charred Corn Salad with Adobo Sauce

from Williams-Sonoma.com

adapted by Judy Gray

serves 12

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, diced

1 tablespoon adobo sauce (from the peppers)

1 teaspoon salt

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 teaspoon honey

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

6 ears of corn, husks and silks removed

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus cilantro leaves for garnish

4 cups cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

1/2 cup diced jicama

1 cup diced red onion

In bowl, whisk together lime juice, orange juice, chipotle chili and adobo sauce, 1 teaspoon salt, garlic, honey and 1/4 cup oil until smooth. Set the vinaigrette aside.

Prepare a hot fire in a grill or preheat a grill pan over high heat.

Rub corn with 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Grill corn, turning occasionally, until charred in spots, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter. When corn is cool enough to handle, remove kernels from cobs and place the kernels in a large bowl. Add rinsed black beans, chopped cilantro, tomatoes, jicama, onion and vinaigrette; stir until well combined. Garnish with cilantro leaves. Serve the salad at room temperature.

This is a nice summer salad, very colorful with lots of crunch and zip. The San Francisco Chronicle (October 8, 2008) lists chipotle peppers in adobo sauce as one of the top ten versatile pantry items. It can befound in the Mexican food section of many grocery stores.

Fennel Salad

from a newspaper reprint, origin unknown

adapted by Kathy Lindenbaum

makes 6 servings

juice and grated zest from 1 medium orange

juice and grated zest from 1 lime

1/8 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

2 fennel bulbs, cored and thinly sliced

1/2 red or sweet onion, cored and thinly sliced

2 Belgian endives, thinly sliced

bunch of watercress (preferably young/small leaves), cleaned and stemmed

sea salt and pepper

Mix the orange and lime juices and zests with the rice wine vinegar and olive oil. Add the fennel and onion, mix well and sprinkle with several grinds of sea salt and pepper. Cover salad with plastic wrap; press the wrap down on the top of the salad to compress and make a seal. Refrigerate for several hours.

At serving time, toss in the endive and watercress and check again for seasoning to see if you want to add more sea salt or pepper before plating.

This salad combines greatflavors and textures. You can also add orange slices.

Moroccan Couscous Salad

Photo by Misha Gravenor

from Bon Appetit, August 2008

adapted by Mary Lonergan

makes 8 servings

2 cups low-salt chicken broth

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon ground ginger

2 garlic cloves, pressed

2 teaspoons salt, divided

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1 10-ounce box plain couscous (whole wheat is best)

1 cup golden raisins

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 1/2 cups)

1 large red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 2 cups)

1 large carrot, peeled, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise

1 cup thinly sliced green beans, or trimmed sugar snap peas

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Bring chicken broth, 1 tablespoon oil, ginger, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, turmeric, cinnamon, and cumin to boil in heavy large saucepan. Stir in couscous and remove from heat. Scatter raisins over, cover, and let stand until couscous softens, about 10 minutes. Fluff couscous with fork, breaking up any lumps with fingertips. Transfer couscous to large bowl. Add cucumber, red bell pepper, carrot, green beans, and lemon peel. Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon salt, and lemon juice in small bowl. Add to couscous; toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

This dish is colorful, crunchy and aromatic. It is a nice complement to grilled chicken or fish.

Shrimp-Stuffed Papaya

origin unknown

via Sue Gilbert

serves 4

2/3 pound cooked baby shrimp

1 tablespoon minced onion

1 tablespoon minced celery

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 limes, divided

1/4 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon dill weed

1 1/2 tablespoons minced mango chutney

salt and pepper to taste

2 ripe papayas, cut in half lengthwise and seeded

Mix together shrimp, onion and celery and set aside. Whisk together mayonnaise, juice of one lime, curry powder, dill weed, mango chutney, salt and pepper. Pour mayonnaise mixture over shrimp mixture and toss gently to mix. Chill for one hour to let flavors meld. Mound equal portions of the shrimp salad into the papaya halves. Cut remaining lime into wedges and use as garnish.

This is a very refreshing treat for lunch!

Tomato Bread Salad with Burrata

from the San Francisco Chronicle, August 1, 2007 (Janet Fletcher)

adapted by Sue Gilbert

serves 8

1/3 pound plain or herbed focaccia, cut in 3/4-inch cubes

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil plus more for garnish

1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes cut into 3/4-inch dice

1/2 pound English cucumber, peeled, quartered lengthwise and then sliced in

1/2-inch pieces

1/2 onion, very thinly sliced

16 Kalamata olives, pitted and halved

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and chopped

12 to 16 basil leaves

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 large clove garlic, finely minced

Kosher or sea salt and pepper

3/4 pound burrata (or fresh whole milk mozzarella), cut into 8 wedges

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In a bowl, toss the focaccia cubes with the olive oil. Spread on a baking sheet and bake until the bread is lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To make the dressing, whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper to taste.

In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives and capers. Just before serving, tear the basil leaves into small pieces and add to bowl along with focaccia cubes. Then pour dressing over salad and toss gently but well. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Divide the salad among 8 salad plates. Make a small well in the center of each salad and put the burrata in the well. Drizzle some olive oil over the burrata. Sprinkle with coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately.

This salad gets raves when great tomatoes are in season.

Minted Sweet Pea Soup and Spinach Soup

from The Silver Palate Cookbook

adapted by Judy Gray

makes 1 1/2 quarts (8 small servings)

4 tablespoons sweet butter

2 cups finely chopped yellow onions

10 ounces frozen chopped spinach (defrosted)

3 cups chicken stock

10 ounces frozen peas (defrosted)

2 cups fresh mint, loosely packed

1 cup heavy cream

salt and pepper to taste

lemon juice to taste

Melt butter in a pot. Add the chopped onions, cover, and cook over low heat until tender and lightly colored, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, drain the spinach and squeeze out excess liquid. Pour the stock into the pot, stir in the peas and spinach, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until peas are tender, about 10 minutes.

Pull the mint leaves from their stems; there should be 2 cups of loosely packed leaves. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. When peas are tender, add mint to the pot; cover and simmer for another 5 minutes. Pour the soup through a strainer, reserving liquid, and transfer the solids to the bowl of a food processor or a blender. Add 1 cup of the cooking liquid and process until smooth.

Return puréed soup to the pot. Add the heavy cream and additional cooking liquid, if necessary, until the soup is the desired consistency.

Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice, simmer briefly to heat through and serve immediately.

This is a very fresh-tasting soup that can be prepared quite easily. A great summer dish!

Pumpkin Soup

from Dorothy Liu

adapted by Carol Hutchinson

makes 8 3/4-cup servings

1 15-ounce can of pumpkin (don't use pie filling!)

32 ounces chicken or vegetable broth

4 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 medium apple, chopped (Granny Smith is best)

1 medium onion, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

optional garnishes*

Sauté the apple and onion with some chicken broth until softened.

Add the pumpkin and rest of the broth and cook on low heat until heated through.

Add the curry powder, cumin and cloves, salt and pepper to taste. Once the flavors have melded (about 10 to 15 minutes), put it in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add more broth if it is too thick.

* roasted pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, pistachios, yogurt, Mexican crèma or sour cream, chopped chives

Squash or sweet potatoes can be substituted for pumpkin.

Apple Granita

from Jodie Fiori

via Mary Lonergan

makes 3 cups

2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

3/8 cup sugar

3/4 cup water

1 tablespoon Calvados

Place apple and lemon juice in a food processor and process until desired consistency. Add sugar, water, and Calvados and process again until blended. Freeze in an ice cream maker. Move mixture to a separate container and keep in freezer until needed. Loosen with a fork (or a small ice cream scoop) before serving.

This is great for an autumn dinner as a refresher between courses. Serve small scoops in little tea or sake cups with demitasse spoons. It is delicious and easy.

You can also make this without an ice cream maker by freezing it in a metal pan and scraping the mixture with a fork once an hour for about five hours until all the liquid has frozen and has a grainy consistency.

Apricot-Fennel Chutney

from The New York Times, August 3, 2008 (Daniel Patterson)

via Jeanne Milligan

makes about 1 1/2 cups

2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup finely chopped fennel

1 cup finely chopped apricots

1 teaspoon lime juice

2 tablespoons chopped mint

In a non-reactive pot, bring 1/2 cup water, the vinegar, red pepper, sugar and salt to a boil. Add the fennel and gently boil until tender but still crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the apricots and bring to a boil, stirring, until mixture thickens, 3 to 5 minutes more.

Spread the chutney in a baking dish to cool. When it reaches room temperature, stir in the lime juice and mint. Adjust with salt and sugar to taste.

Serve with pork chops, beef, lamb, or poultry.

Cranberry, Pear and Ginger Chutney

Photo by Con Poulos

from Bon Appétit, November 2007

via Sisi Damner

makes about 3 1/2 cups

1 cup apple cider vinegar

1 cup apple cider

1 cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons fresh ginger, finely chopped and peeled (about 1 ounce)

2 1/2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel

2 1/2 teaspoons finely grated orange peel

1 cinnamon stick, broken in half

1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 12-ounce bag fresh cranberries

1 1/4 cups (packed) golden brown sugar

2 large firm Bosc pears (about 18 ounces total), peeled, cored, cut into 3/4-inch cubes (about 2 1/2 cups)

Combine apple cider vinegar, apple cider, onion, ginger, lemon peel, orange peel, cinnamon stick pieces, crushed red pepper, and ground cloves in heavy large saucepan. Boil mixture until reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 15 minutes. Add cranberries, brown sugar, and pears; stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover and simmer until pears are very tender, berries collapse, and flavors blend, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat; discard cinnamon stick pieces. Using potato masher, mash mixture coarsely. Transfer chutney to bowl and cool.

(This can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Don't be put off by the vinegar smell. This is an adult cranberry sauce that is fabulous with turkey.

Farmers' Market Raspberry-Rhubarb Sauce

from the Farmers' Market in Tahoe City, California

via Mary Lonergan

makes 2 cups

1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and cut into inch-long pieces

1 basket raspberries (1 pint)

4 teaspoons tapioca (not the pearl variety)

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice (optional)

Combine all ingredients but lemon juice in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and stir. Cook until rhubarb is tender for 15 minutes, stirring often. The sauce should be slightly thick, red and glossy. If desired, add lemon juice and stir.

This works just as well with green rhubarb as with red. The sauce turns deep red in any case. We even used frozen rhubarb and frozen raspberries from Whole Foods. They worked just fine.

Quick, easy and delicious - especially good over vanilla ice cream and on French toast or pancakes.

Channa Masala Snack

by Maud Hallin

serves 8 as an appetizer

2 tablespoons garam masala

2 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 15-ounce can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans)

2 tablespoons tamarind chutney

salt, pepper, extra ginger, garlic or coriander to taste

Heat garam masala, cumin and turmeric in a cast iron pan; grind in coffee grinder. Add to pot with chickpeas, the broth the chickpeas came in and tamarind chutney. Boil to reduce liquid to about half. Adjust seasonings. Grind the mixture into a spread to serve on crackers.

Tamarind Chutney

by Maud Hallin

serves 12 to 16 as a condiment

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1teaspoon cumin seeds

8 large fairly fresh dates, cut in quarters with pits removed (about 1 cup)

4 tablespoons tamarind concentrate

1 cup dark brown sugar

2 cups of water

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated

1 tablespoon garlic, grated

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

salt and chili pepper to taste

Heat fenugreek, fennel and cumin in acast iron pan. When you smell the aroma, grind spices in a coffee grinder. In a cooking pot, mix the dates, tamarind, sugar, water and spices. Simmer for 30 minutes or until thickened. Halfway through cooking add ginger, garlic, vinegar, salt and chili pepper.

The Tamarind Chutney can be used as a dip or a stir-in sauce for other Indian snacks.

It goes particularly well with the Channa Masala Snack.

Tomato Jam

Photo by Evan Sung

from the New York Times, August 20, 2008

adapted by Anne Halsted

yields about 1 pint

1 1/2 pounds good ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon fresh grated or minced ginger

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

1 jalapeno or other pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced

(or red pepper flakes or Cayenne pepper to taste)

Combine all ingredients in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mixture has consistency of thick jam, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, then cool and refrigerate until ready to use; this will keep at least a week.

Very tasty condiment with meats and fowl. Also good with cream cheese and crackers as an hors d'oeuvre!

Black-Eyed Peas in a Spicy Goan Curry

from Ruta Kahate's 5 Spices, 50 Dishes

adapted by Katherine KoelschKriken

serves 6 generously

1 cup dried black-eyed peas or two 15-ounce cans, drained

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 small yellow onion, minced (about 1 cup)

2 teaspoons coriander seeds, finely ground

1 teaspoon finely grated garlic (1 large clove)

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger (2-inch piece)

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon Cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, finely ground

1/4 cup minced tomato (1 small tomato)

1 cup hot water (or 1/2 cup if using canned peas)

salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup canned coconut milk

2 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon lemon juice

If using dried black-eyed peas, rinse and soak them in enough water to cover for 6 to 8 hours. Drain.

In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium-low heat and saute the onion until it turns dark brown, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander seeds, garlic, ginger, turmeric, Cayenne pepper and cumin and stir for 2 minutes. Add the tomato and stir over low heat until it disintegrates. Add the peas and mix well. Pour in hot water, add salt and sugar and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, cover and simmer until the peas are cooked through, about 20 minutes. (If using canned peas, simmer only 10 minutes; it's essential to simmer the canned peas so that all the flavors blend better.) Stir in the coconut milk and simmer uncovered for another 8 to 10 minutes, again allowing the flavors to come together. Add the cilantro and lemon juice, simmer for 1minute more and remove from heat.

Serve hot with steamed rice.

For a satisfying soup for lunch, double the amounts of water and coconut milk.

This recipe can also be found in a San Francisco Chronicle article (June 8, 2007) on pairing Indian foods with wine.

Grilled Artichokes with Curry Mayonnaise

from the Farmers' Market in Bayview, Washington

via Dick Lonergan

serves 4

2 large artichokes

juice of 1 large lemon

olive oil

pepper

garlic salt

Curry Mayonnaise

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Cut off tops of the artichokes and trim the tops of their leaves. Remove the stems at the base. Put lemon juice on the bottom and on the cut leaves. Set the artichokes in a large pot containing 1 inch of water. Bring to a boil, and simmer, covered, until bottom is tender, about 40 minutes. Make sure water doesn't evaporate.

Meanwhile heat grill. Cut artichokes in half from top to bottom and remove the choke. Brush all over with olive oil. Sprinkle generously with pepper and garlic salt. Grill over high heat for 5 minutes with leaves down (curved part down). Then grill for 5 more minutes on the flat side.

Serve with curry mayonnaise (stir or whisk the 3 ingredients until blended).

We had a grilled artichoke at the Farmers' Market and just had to recreate it using their advice. The simple steps of seasoning and grilling add an extra something to an already special vegetable.

Roasted Butternut Squash with Pancetta and Chiles

from A16: Food + Wine

via Katherine KoelschKriken

serves 6

1 3-pound butternut squash

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 ounces pancetta, diced (about 1 cup)

2 Calabrian chiles, stemmed and chopped
(or substitute 1/2 teaspoon dried chile flakes, since they are easier to find)

Preheat oven to 500 degrees.

Halve the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Peel squash halves and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces and cut into 1/2-inch cubes, about 8 cups. In large bowl, toss the squash with a few generous pinches salt and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Divide the squash between 2 rimmed baking sheets, spreading the pieces evenly over the pans. Roast the squash, rotating the pan front to back about halfway through cooking, for about 15 minutes or until cooked through and golden.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small pot over low heat. Stir in the pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally for about 4 minutes, or until crispy. Drain excess fat. Stir in the chiles, remove from the heat and set aside.

When squash is ready, remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes. Transfer to a large bowl, add the pancetta mixture and toss to mix. Taste for seasoning and adjust with salt if needed. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

This simple recipe yields deep and complexflavors. Roasting is now my preferred approach to vegetables. It intensifies their taste.

Trader Joe's, Costco and some other markets sell already-diced pancetta.

Roasted Carrots and Snap Peas with Green Garlic and Mint

from A16: Food + Wine

via Katherine KoelschKriken

serves 6

Kosher salt

4 cups (about 12 ounces) snap peas

1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced on the diagonal 1/4-inch thick

extra virgin olive oil

freshly ground black pepper

2 stalks green garlic, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise

1/4 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, sliced

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, string the peas by snapping off the stem and peeling away the stringy fiber. Add the peas to the boiling water and blanch for 2 minutes. Drain and shock immediately in an ice bath. Once cool, drain, dry and slice in half on the diagonal.

Place the carrots in a bowl and toss to coat with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread the carrots evenly in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast for 20 minutes, stirring carrots every 5 minutes to ensure even browning.

Once the carrots are golden, add the snap peas and green garlic to the baking sheet and stir carefully to combine. Roast a few minutes more, until the peas are heated through and the garlic has lost a bit of its raw bite. Remove the vegetables from the oven and place in a serving bowl. Stir in the mint right before serving.

Use young green garlic when available. If you can't find green garlic, you can substitute scallions or 3 small shallots and 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, added 10 minutes before the snap peas. Stir them so that they roast but don't burn. Green garlic works best, however!

Fabulous springtime dish!

Roasted Potatoes + Cauliflower with Red Onion, Capers and Chiles

from A16 Food+Wine

adapted by Katherine KoelschKriken

serves 6

1 pound small Yukon Gold potatoes, similar in size, cut into 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 head (about 2 pounds) cauliflower

1/2 cup salt-packed capers, soaked at least 30 minutes in

cool water then drained well and patted dry

1/2 teaspoon dried chile flakes

1 red onion, sliced

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

In large bowl, combine the potatoes with about 1 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons of olive oil and toss to coat the potatoes evenly. Transfer the potatoes to a rimmed baking sheet, spreading them in an even layer. Reserve the bowl for seasoning the cauliflower. Roast the potatoes, rotating the pan
front to back about halfway through cooking, for about 20 minutes and rotate the pan front to back.

Meanwhile remove the core of the cauliflower and separate the head into florets. Cut the largest florets in half so that all of the florets are uniform in size. Transfer to the same bowl used to season the potatoes, add about 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 cup of olive oil and toss to coat the florets evenly. Give the cauliflower a final toss in the bowl and then transfer to the roast pan with the potatoes. Using a rubber spatula, scrape any oil remaining in the bowl into the pan.

While the potatoes and cauliflower roast together for another 15 to 20 minutes, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small pot over medium heat. Pat the capers dry with a paper towel and carefully add them to the oil (they may splatter). Fry the capers for about 2 minutes or until they bloom and become crispy. Stir in the chile flakes and onion and cook for 3 minutes longer or until
the onion softens. Stir in the vinegar and remove from the heat.

When the potatoes and cauliflower are ready, remove from the oven and let cool slightly. Then add the onion mixture and toss gently until all of the ingredients are evenly distributed. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and vinegar if needed to balance the flavors. Serve hot from the oven or at room temperature.

Make sure you use salt-packed capers.

We love the combination of crisped cauliflower with the buttery-flavored yellow potato and crisp capers. If you have some left over, bring it to room temperature and add pickled chile peppers for a nice potato salad.

Tomato Bread Pudding

Photo by Romulo Yanes

from Gourmet, July 2008

via Anne Halsted

serves 12

3 pounds plum tomatoes such as Roma, halved lengthwise

1 1/2 teaspoons herbes de Provence

2 3/4 teaspoons salt and 3 teaspoons pepper, divided

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 head garlic, left whole

8 cups cubed (1-inch) country style Italian bread (3/4 pound)

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

8 large eggs

2 cups coarsely grated chilled Italian Fontina (9 ounces)

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preheat oven to 400 degrees with rack in middle.

Butter a 3-quart shallow baking dish (about 13x9 inches). Toss tomatoes in a bowl with herbes de
Provence, 1 tablespoon oil, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Arrange tomatoes, cut sides up, in a large heavy 4-sided sheet pan. Cut off 1/4 inch from the top of the garlic head to expose the cloves, and drizzle with 1 teaspoon of oil. Wrap garlic in foil and roast in the pan with tomatoes until tomatoes are browned but still juicy and garlic is soft, about 50 to 60 minutes. Leave oven
on. Cool garlic to warm, then force through a medium mesh sieve with a rubber spatula, discarding skins. Reserve puree.

While garlic is cooking, toss bread cubes in a large bowl with the remaining oil until coated, then spread out in a large 4-sided sheet pan and bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in pan.*

Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Whisk together milk, cream, eggs, garlic puree, 2 teaspoons salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper. Stir in cheeses. Transfer bread to baking dish, then pour egg mixture over bread and add tomatoes, pushing some down between bread cubes. Bake at 350 degrees until firm to the touch and golden brown in spots, 50 to 60 minutes.

*You could prepare to this point a day ahead and be ready to cook the balance an hour and a half before eating, or you could prepare it all a day ahead, and it would be fine.

This dish was a real hit!

Zucchini Terrine

Photographer: Ditte Isage; Food Stylist: Jee Levin;
Prop Stylist: Heather Chontos

from The New York Times, April 27, 2008 via Sara Barnes

adapted by Anne Halsted

serves 8

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

2 1/4 pounds (about 4 medium) zucchini, unpeeled

5 tablespoons olive oil

4 eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup chopped basil

pinch aniseed

pinch ground cumin

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and stir in 1 tablespoon Kosher salt. Prepare an ice-water bath. Using a small knife or mandoline, slice 2 zucchini lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices and drop into the boiling water. Cook for 30 seconds, transfer to the ice bath to cool and drain.

Quarter the remaining zucchini lengthwise, remove the seeds and cut into 1/2-inch dice. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the diced zucchini and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened but not colored, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the cream, basil, aniseed, cumin, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2
teaspoon pepper. When the zucchini is cool enough not to cook the eggs, stir it gradually into the egg mixture.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Line a 2-quart or 4 by 11 by 3-inch terrine crosswise with overlapping zucchini slices. If needed, lay extra zucchini up the sides. Pour the egg mixture into the zucchini-lined terrine. Cover with foil and place in a roasting pan. Pour enough boiling water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the terrine. Bake until a knife inserted into the center
comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool until set, about 10 minutes. Before turning out, run a knife along the inside edge of the terrine. Unmold, blotting up excess liquid. Serve warm or cold, sliced.

This is particularly nice served on a red pepper or tomato coulis. We used a 4 1/2 by 6 1/2 by 3-inch terrine and baked for 1 1/2 hours with great results.

Monday, December 22, 2008

Chicken with Cinnamon and Dates

from The New York Times, February 20, 2008 (Kim Sunée)

recommended by Jeanne Milligan

serves 6 to 8

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 2 teaspoons

1/2 pound (about 2 links) merguez, spicy Italian or lamb sausage, cut in halves or thirds (casings removed, if desired)

6 to 8 skinless chicken thighs

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 large onions, thinly sliced

1tablespoon white wine, orange juice or water

3 garlic cloves, smashed and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon hot paprika

11/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water

1/2 cup fresh orange juice

about 1/3 cup golden raisins or currents

2 to 3 carrots, cut lengthwise and halved diagonally

12 to 15 pitted dates

1 large orange, cut into 8 wedges

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus additional for garnish

pine nuts, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place a large Dutch oven (or skillet, if planning to bake in a tagine) over medium-high heat with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add sausage and chicken and sprinkle with half the salt and pepper. Brown about 5 minutes. Turn, sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper, and brown another 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate or the bottom of a tagine.

Add 1 or 2 teaspoons olive oil to Dutch oven or skillet, as needed, and add onions. Saute until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Add wine, and stir, scraping bottom of pan. Add garlic, ginger, cinnamon, cumin and paprika, and stir until garlic and ginger are softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in chicken broth, orange juice, raisins and carrots. Return chicken and sausage to pot or pour onion-carrot mixture over the chicken and sausage in tagine. Add dates and orange wedges, and stir to mix. Cover, and bake until chicken and carrots are fork-tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Taste, and adjust seasonings, as needed. Garnish with cilantro and pine nuts.

If desired, serve with hot buttered couscous and harissapaste or chutney. For a group, this dish is a great variation on the usual chicken stews; it is full of surprise tastes.

You can also find this recipe in Kim Sunée's book, "Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home."

Cuban Flank Steak with Garlic, Oregano, Orange and Cumin

from The New York Times, July 30, 2008

via Dick Lonergan

serves 4

juice of 1 large orange (about 1/4 cup)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 fat garlic cloves

1 tablespoon fresh oregano, packed

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest

1/2 teaspooon freshly ground black pepper

1 flank steak, about 1 1/2 pounds

In a blender, combine orange juice, olive oil, oregano, garlic, cumin, salt, orange zest and pepper. Blend until smooth. Pour marinade over flank steak, rubbing it into the meat. Let sit, uncovered, at room temperature while you light the grill. Or you can cover and refrigerate steak for several hours or even overnight.

Grill over high heat, turning once, until done to taste, about 3 minutes a side for rare. Slice in thin slices across the grain to serve.

Finally a new way to do flank steak!

Curried Lamb Leftovers with Lentils, Apple and Tomato

from the New Doubleday Cookbook

adapted by Mary Lonergan

serves 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, minced

2 tart apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

2 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 cup cooked lentils

1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, including liquid

3 cups leftover lamb, cut in 1/2-inch cubes

salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil in a saucepan over moderate heat, add onion and saute for about 8 minutes, until golden. Add apple, garlic, curry powder and cumin, and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add all remaining ingredients, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Serve over rice, and accompany with chutney and chopped scallions.

Trader Joe's often has cooked lentils in the produce section.

Grilled Sea Bass with Sliced Artichokes Stewed in Olive Oil

from Chez Panisse Cooking

via Anne Halsted and Wells Whitney

serves 6

24 small artichokes (4 pounds)

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

10 cloves garlic (1/3 cup), slivered

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

juice of 1 lemon (2 1/2 tablespoons)

6 sea bass filets, 4 ounces each

salt and pepper

Pull away the tough outer leaves of each artichoke until the yellow-green heart is revealed. Slice off the pointed top at about halfway between the point and the base of the artichoke. Cut off the stem and pare off what is left of the dark green outer leaves surrounding the bottom. Submerge the prepared hearts in acidulated water to prevent them from turning brown. When all the chokes
have been pared to the heart, turn them choke side down, and slice them about 1/8-inch thick.

Warm the olive oil in a stainless steel pot, and add the sliced artichokes, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme, and lemon juice. Cover and cook the artichokes slowly, stirring often, for 20 minutes, or until tender.

Just before the artichokes are done, lightly brush the sea bass filets on both sides with olive oil, salt and pepper. Quickly grill them over a hot fire until they are just done. Transfer them to warm plates, and pile stewed artichokes over each filet.

We love the combination of the stewed, sliced artichokes with the fish!

Jungle Fowl, India Fashion

by Maud Hallin

serves 4 to 6 people

3 pounds skinless, bone-in chicken, cut in pieces.

4 dried hot chiles

1 2-inch cinnamon stick, somewhat broken

1 1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds

7 whole cardamom pods (or 1 teaspoon of peeled cardamom)

10 whole cloves

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

15 or 16 dried apricots, sliced

6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

2 tablespoons tomato puree (paste)

1 cup water

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Heat cinnamon, cardamom and cloves in a pan without oil, stir to make crunchy. Add cumin seeds and chiles. Remove to spice grinder (coffee grinder). Blend ground spices with ginger and garlic, and rub into your best jungle fowl. Leave for about 4 hours in refrigerator. But in desperation remove after two drinks.

Heat some of the oil in a sturdy pot, add the onions. Remove when cooked through. Heat the rest of the oil and sear the outside of the chicken, 3 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other. Add back the onion and the apricots. Add tomato paste mixed with the water. Add the vinegar, sugar and salt. Stir well, put the lid on. Have another glass of wine and set the table. Taste after 20
to 25 minutes.

Marde Ross and I met with the original chicken in the jungles of Nepal. We fell in love with that beautiful colorful bird. In its honor we cooked this recipe. It was so good that I ate it cold for lunch for three days!

The sweeter the apricots, the sweeter the sauce. Try sour apricots for a nice, savory dish.

Lemon and Herb-Crusted Halibut

from Emeril Lagasse at Food Network

via Dick Lonergan

serves 4

4 teaspoons chopped lemon zest

4 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

4 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

4 teaspoons chopped fresh chervil leaves

2 teaspoons cracked black pepper

4 6-ounce halibut fillets, skinned

1 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 cups cleaned fresh arugula leaves

2 tablespoons olive oil

In a shallow bowl combine the lemon zest, dill, parsley, chervil and black pepper. Season the fish with 3/4 teaspoon of the salt, then lightly brush 1 side of each piece with 1 teaspoon of the Dijon mustard. Firmly press only the mustard-coated side of each of the halibut fillets into the lemon-herb mixture. Do not coat the other side.

In a skillet, preferably non-stick, heat the vegetable oil. Place fillets, coated side down, into the hot oil. Cook until the crust turns golden, 3 to 3 1/2 minutes. Flip and continue to cook until the fish flakes easily, 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl toss the arugula with the olive oil and season with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Divide between 4 plates and place one of the fillets onto each mound of arugula.

If you can't find chervil, use tarragon or celery leaves or a mixture.

Delicious topped with a salad ofhalved cherry tomatoes, diced red onion, lemon zest and chopped parsley tossed with a simple vinaigrette.

Moules Marinières
(Mussels Steamed in White Wine)

from many sources

adapted by Maud Hallin

7 to 8 persons for first course (2 or 3 as a main course)

2 pounds cleaned mussels

1 or 2 cups dry white wine

1/4 cup chopped shallots (about half of a large American-grown shallot)

2 large cloves minced garlic 1/4 cup chopped celery

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 bay leaf

1/4 cup basil, or thyme or fennel leaves, either is fun

salt and pepper 4 tablespoons of butter or olive oil

Store live mussels in your refrigerator and cover with damp cloth or wet newspaper. They must never stand in water. Put towel or sieve in bottom of container. Check mussels before cooking for dead ones (they will be light in weight). Rinse mussels in fresh water. Remove any beard just before cooking.

Melt butter or put oil into deep heavy, large cooking pot. Add celery, shallots, garlic and one cup of wine. Cook, stirring for about 30 minutes to extract flavors.

Five minutes before serving, taste sauce for salt and pepper, remembering that mussels will have some salt. Add enough wine for 2 tablespoons of sauce per first course serving. Pour in mussels, stir pot, put on lid for 3 or 4 minutes, stir some more. Add herbs. Cover the mussels again with the lid. Check after 2 minutes. When mussels are open, they are ready to serve. Divide onto deep plates, and spoon on a bit of sauce. Or serve directly from deep pot.

Frites or bruschetta would be delicious as an accompaniment. This is messy and fun finger food.

Oil Poached Halibut with Tomatoes and Fennel

from Gourmet, July 2008

adapted by Anne Halsted

serves 8

6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

3 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed, reserving some fronds for garnish, and bulbs (including core) cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch thick slices

1 1/2 pounds small (1 1/2 to 2-inch) tomatoes, halved

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon sugar

1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf

3 (3 by 1-inch) strips orange zest

1 teaspoon salt

1 quart extra virgin olive oil

2 1/2 pounds skinless halibut fillet (about 1 1/2-inches thick), cut into serving size pieces

1 teaspoon pepper

parchment paper

In a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot, at least 4 inches deep, simmer garlic, fennel bulbs, tomatoes, fennel seeds, sugar, bay leaf, orange zest and salt in the oil, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender but still intact, 30 to 40 minutes. While vegetables simmer, rub fish with pepper and let stand 10 to 20 minutes.

Transfer vegetables to a bowl with a slotted spoon, and then submerge fish in oil (if necessary to lift level of oil, return vegetables to pot) and cover surface of oil with parchment paper. Cook fish over medium heat (without simmering) 5 minutes and remove from heat. Let fish cook from residual heat (still covered with parchment) until just cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes.

Carefully transfer fish to platter using 2 spatulas. Discard bay leaf. Surround with vegetables. Drizzle with some of the oil and sprinkle with chopped fronds (about 2 tablespoons). Serve warm or at room temperature.

Vegetables and fish can be cooked 1 day ahead. Remove from oil to cool, then chill in oil, covered. Reheat to warm over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, before removing from oil.

Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with Lingonberry Sauce on Creamy Truffled Polenta

from Bon Appétit, September 2004

adapted by Mary and Dick Lonergan

serves 8, very generously

Lingonberry Sauce

2 cups dry red wine

1 14-ounce can low-salt chicken broth

1 14-ounce can low-salt beef broth

2 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

2 teaspoons butter, room temperature

2 teaspoons all purpose flour

1/2 cup lingonberry preserves

Creamy Truffled Polenta

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock

1/2 cup quick cooking polenta

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1 1/2 teaspoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup milk

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

6 boneless duck breast halves with skin (about 2 1/4 pounds)

For sauce: Bring wine, chicken broth, beef broth, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf to boil in heavy large saucepan. Boil until reduced to 1 cup, about 45 minutes. Mix butter and flour in small bowl to blend. Whisk butter-flour mixture into broth. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in lingonberry preserves; simmer 1minute. Remove thyme sprigs and bay leaf. (Sauce can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Reheat before serving.)

For polenta: Place stock in a medium saucepan overhigh heat and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, and gradually whisk in the polenta right away. Stir constantly until mixture starts to thicken, about 4 minutes. Add Parmesan cheese and butter and stir until melted. Stir in milk. Taste and add salt, if needed. (The polenta can be done ahead to this point and reheated, with 1/4 cup
of chicken stock, stirred in to fluff it up). Just before serving, stir in truffle oil.

For duck: Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse and dry duck breasts. Cutoff any excess skin and remove the tough white tendon under the long, thin tender. Score skin of duck breasts in crisscross pattern, but do not cut into the meat. This helps render the fat and makes the skin crispy. Sprinkle duck with salt and pepper.

Heat heavy large ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add duck breasts, skin side down, to dry skillet. Reduce heat to medium and cook until skin is golden brown, about 7 minutes. (This can be done earlier in the day; reheat in hot skillet, skin-side down, for 2 minutes.) Turn duck over and transfer skillet to oven; roast to desired doneness, about 5 minutes for medium-rare, no more than 125 degrees on a meat thermometer. Transfer duck to cutting board, tent with foil and let stand for at least 5 minutes.

Cut duck breasts into 1/2-inch thick slices. Fan 3 slices over about 1/3 cup of polenta on each plate. Drizzle with about 2tablespoons of the sauce and serve.

Serve this with mdche (lamb's lettuce) or watercress on the plate; it looks wonderful! We tried both Maple Leaf and Muscovy duck breasts and thought the Maple Leafbreasts were more succulent.

Slow Oven-Cooked Salmon with Rosé Sauce

an original recipefrom the Herbfarm in Woodinville, Washington

adapted by Kathy Lindenbaum

serves 4

Rosé Sauce

2/3 cup chopped shallots 1 tablespoon butter

2 cups rose wine

1/2 cup mayonnaise or aioli lemon juice or fruit vinegar (optional)

1 pound salmon filet, cut into 4 pieces

olive oil

sea salt and pepper

3/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as sorrel, tarragon, dill or chives

Sauté shallots in a deep non-reactive pot. Add the rosé wine and cook over high heat until reduced to about 1/2 cup. Cool. Add mayonnaise. This will be the consistency of a pourable sauce. Add lemon juice or fruit vinegar if the sauce is not tart or loose enough, and salt and pepper to taste.

Wash and pat salmon dry. Remove any salmon bones with pliers. Pour a little olive oil in a dish big enough to hold the salmon in one layer. Place skin-side down in a casserole and pour more olive oil over the filets to about halfway up the sides. Sprinkle with sea salt and pepper and leave "marinating" for 30 to 45 minutes. Heat oven to 225 degrees!

Remove to a shallow roasting pan (skin-side down again), leaving a small amount of the oil in the roasting pan; there is no need to drain the oil from the salmon itself. Sprinkle the fish with half of the herb mixture and roast in the oven. Check at 15 minutes, and if almost done (slightly pink still) take out and let sit 5 to 10 minutes.

Remove skin, and serve on a bed of greens, drizzled with the rosé sauce and sprinkle lightly with sea salt and the other half of herb mixture.

This recipe produces a very rich-tasting fish. But it is not successful with a less firm fish such as cod, which produced a mushy result.

Spaghetti with Red and Gold Tomatoes and Feta

SPAGHETTI WITH RED AND GOLD TOMATOES AND FETA

from The San Francisco Chronicle, August 7, 2000

adapted by Jeanne Milligan

serves 8

1 1/2 pounds tomatoes of mixed colors, peeled, halved, seeded and thinly sliced

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

splash red wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 pound spaghetti

24 basil leaves

1/2 pound Greek, Bulgarian or French feta

Combine the tomatoes, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Let stand for 30 minutes.

Cook the pasta until al dente in plenty of boiling, salted water. While the pasta cooks, tear the basil leaves into small pieces and add to the tomatoes.

Drain the pasta and transfer to the bowl with the tomatoes. Add the feta, crumbling it as you add it. Toss the pasta well.

This recipe allows for a lot of variations; I add arugula at the last minute, often add a little more vinegar and also use tomatoes unpeeled. Peeling of course is good, but it works without since the tomatoes are room temperature.

A quick, tasty summer dish. Hot spaghetti with a cool sauce makes a great lunch or refreshing dinner on a balmy evening.

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