The Annual Cookbook: Blog-Style: December 2019

Sprinkle the eggplant with salt on both sides and place in a colander in the sink to drain excess water. After 10 minutes, lightly rinse with water and then press dry between two towels.

Position a rack at the top of the oven preheat oven to high broil (or medium if you have the option). Arrange eggplant rounds on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. Roast for 5 to 7 minutes, turning once or twice until eggplant is softened and golden brown. Remove from pan and let cool to the touch. The eggplant should be soft and tender.

While eggplant is roasting, heat a large skillet over medium heat and add olive oil. Then add onion and stir often until caramelized, about 45 minutes. Turn heat to low if browning too quickly. Add minced garlic in the last few minutes so it doesn’t burn. Set aside.

Put eggplant into a mixing bowl. Add onion-garlic mixture and mash with a fork. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Optionally, add ¼ cup Greek yogurt and stir once more. This makes the dip ultra-creamy but is not necessary if someone is vegan or dairy-intolerant.

Serve immediately with pita, toasted baguette, or assorted veggies. Best when eaten fresh, but it will keep in the fridge covered for a couple of days.

A healthier, simple version of the Persian eggplant dip known as Borani or Kashkeh Bademjoon. Creamy, sweet, and so satisfying.

Moroccan Orange Salad

Leslie Sophia Lindell for the Press Democrat

from Stone Edge Farm Larder Kitchen Cookbook

submitted by Anne Halsted

preparation time: 30 minutes

serves 4 to 6

6 navel, Cara Cara, and blood oranges (a mixture)

2 teaspoons Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional)

½ teaspoon orange blossom water, or 1 teaspoon if not using liqueur

4 Medjool dates, pitted and slivered

3 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted

ground cinnamon for sprinkling

10 fresh mint leaves, preferably spearmint, torn into pieces

Juice 1 orange. In a small bowl, stir together the orange juice, liqueur (if using), and orange blossom water.

Using a sharp paring knife, cut ½ inch off the bottom of each of the remaining oranges to expose the flesh. Stand an orange upright and cut downward following the contour of the fruit and slicing off the skin and all the pith in wide strips. Cut the orange cross ways into slices ¼-inch thick. Repeat with the remaining oranges. Arrange the slices on a serving platter, drizzling them with the flavored juice, and set aside to macerate for 10 minutes.

Arrange the dates and almonds over the orange slices and top with a generous sprinkling of cinnamon, garnish with the mint, and serve.

This is a visually stunning dish and could even be served as a light and refreshing dessert.

Fennel and Celery Salad
with Lemon and Parmesan

submitted by Jeanne Milligan

preparation time: about 20 minutes

serves 6

For the dressing:

½ teaspoon lemon zest

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 or 2 crushed garlic cloves

kosher salt and black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the salad:

2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and finely sliced (about 2 cups)

1 or 2 celery hearts, pale ribs and leaves, finely sliced (about 2 cups)

radicchio or treviso leaves, for serving (optional)

1 small piece of Parmesan (about 2 ounces), for serving

¼ cup roughly chopped parsley

basil leaves, for serving

radishes, for serving (optional)

To make the dressing, put lemon juice, zest and garlic in a small bowl. Add a pinch of salt and pepper, stir in olive oil. Set dressing aside for at least 10 minutes.

To prepare the salad, place sliced fennel and celery in a salad bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

Discard garlic from the dressing, and whisk dressing. Pour over vegetables and toss well. Taste and adjust seasoning.

To serve, transfer salad to a platter, and surround with radicchio, if using. Use a vegetable peeler to shave Parmesan generously over the salad. Sprinkle with parsley and basil. Garnish with radishes, if desired.

This salad is surprisingly tasty and refreshing.

Beef Goulash Soup

from foodandwine.com

submitted by Kathy Lindenbaum

serves 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup sweet Hungarian paprika

2 teaspoons caraway seeds, crushed

1 pound ground beef sirloin

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes

1 cup thinly sliced roasted red peppers

1 quart low sodium beef broth

4 ounces wide egg noodles

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

crème fraiche or sour cream for garnish

In a large Dutch oven or Slow Cooker, heat the oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook until softened. Add paprika and caraway and cook for 1 minute. Add the beef and cook, until pink, breaking up the meat – about 3 minutes.

Add tomato paste, diced tomatoes, red peppers, broth and 1 cup of water. Add salt and pepper to taste and bring to a boil. Simmer the soup for 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the noodles in salted, boiling water until al dente and drain. Add the noodles to the soup and cook for 2 minutes. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche.

If you like a little more spice, add some red pepper flakes.

Sippin' Green Gazpacho

Alex Lau for Bon Appetit

from Bon Appetit, August 2017

submitted by Jeanne Milligan

preparation time: 20 minutes

makes 6 cups

2 pounds English hothouse cucumbers (about 2 large), chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

2 cups coarsely chopped arugula

2 cups coarsely chopped mixed tender herbs (e.g., basil, parsley, cilantro, mint)

3 tablespoons (or more) sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

kosher salt

¾ cup (or more) olive oil

Purée cucumbers, garlic, and ½ cup water in a blender until smooth. Add arugula, herbs, vinegar, and a large pinch of salt and purée, stopping to scrape down the sides of the blender as needed, until very smooth. With the motor running, slowly stream in oil; blend until emulsified. (The mixture will turn pale green and look creamy, almost like a salad dressing; add more oil and/or water if needed.) Taste gazpacho and season with more salt and vinegar as desired – you want it to be borderline too salty and acidic at room temperature. If too thick, add stock, vegetarian or not, as desired. Transfer gazpacho to an airtight container; cover and chill until very cold, 4 to 12 hours.

Taste gazpacho and adjust with a little more salt and/or vinegar as needed just before pouring into chilled glasses.

This zippy, herbaceous drinkable soup is like a trip to the farmers’ market in a glass. Coldness dulls flavor, which is why it is important to season generously while the mixture is warm.

Turkish Yogurt and Green Garlic Soup

from Stone Edge Farm Kitchen Cookbook

submitted by Anne Halsted

preparation time: about 45 minutes

serves 5

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

¼ cup basmati, Calrose, or other good quality white rice

kosher salt

¾ pound green garlic stalks, dark green tops with tough outer layers removed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon Aleppo or other red chili flakes

artisanal sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg

1½ teaspoons all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1½ cups plain Greek yogurt

10 fresh mint leaves, torn

In your smallest pan, over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter and cook, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids separate from the butterfat. Continue cooking until the butter turns a deep golden brown and perfumes the air with the fragrance of toasted nuts, about 2 minutes. butter can easily burn once it has browned, so immediately pour it into a small bowl and set aside.

Bring a small saucepan filled with lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and cook until tender, about 12 minutes. Drain and reserve.

Split the garlic stalks in half lengthwise and rinse well under cold water to remove any dirt, then thinly slice crosswise. In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter with the olive oil and stir in the green garlic. Add the cumin, chile flakes, and a generous pinch of artisanal salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the green garlic is very tender and tastes sweet, about 20 minutes.

When ready to serve, whisk together the egg and flour in a large bowl until a paste forms. Slowly whisk in a little stock to thin the paste, then stir in the remaining stock and the yogurt. Pour the mixture over the green garlic mixture and warm over medium heat, stirring occasionally, to just below a boil. Don’t let the soup boil or it will lose its smooth, luscious consistency. Taste and add artisanal salt if needed.

To serve, divide the rice evenly among warmed bowls, then ladle the soup over the top. Garnish each serving with a generous drizzle of browned butter, some mint, and a grind of pepper.

Creamy Braised Chanterelles and Potatoes

Julia Gartland for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

from The New York Times

submitted by Anne Halsted

preparation time: about 2 hours

serves 4 to 6 main course servings or 8 to 10 appetizer servings

1 to 1½ pounds fresh chanterelle or shiitake mushrooms

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1½ cups heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)

1½ cups sour cream or crème fraîche

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 pounds Yukon Gold or all-purpose potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

Crusty bread, for serving (optional)

Clean the mushrooms: fill the sink or a large bowl with cold water. Lay out some clean kitchen towels. Working with a few at a time, dunk the mushrooms in the water and gently swish to remove any dirt or debris. Shake off excess water and transfer to the towels to dry. Use your hands to tear any large mushrooms into halves or quarters.

In a medium size heavy pot with a lid, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally. The mushrooms will first give off a lot of liquid, and then it will begin to evaporate. Raise the heat as needed to keep the liquid at a fast boil.

In a bowl, whisk together the heavy cream, sour cream and salt. When the liquid in the pot with mushrooms has mostly evaporated, stir in the cream mixture and bring to a simmer. Add the potatoes, partly cover the pot, and let simmer gently for one hour. Check and adjust the heat occasionally to make sure the mixture is simmering, not boiling. After 1 hour, test the potatoes. If they are still firm, keep simmering until they are just cooked through. When the potatoes are just cooked through, uncover the pot and raise the heat to a lively simmer. Cook until the braising liquid reduces and begins to caramelize, 10 to 20 minutes. It will turn golden brown and thick, like a cream sauce. Taste and add more salt if necessary. Towards the end, stir often to prevent the liquid at the bottom of the pot from scorching. Serve when prepared and hot, mopping up the sauce with crusty bread if desired.

It is delicious but the potatoes can sort of overwhelm the chanterelles.

Crispy Cauliflower-Carrot Fritters
with Smoky Garlic Aioli

from OhMyVeggies.com

submitted by Isabel Wade

prep time: 15 to 20 minutes, cook time: 15 minutes

serves 6 (two fritters each)

For the fritters:

4 cups water

2 cups cauliflower florets

1 cup matchstick-cut carrots

½ cup all-purpose flour

⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon Cayenne pepper (optional)

2 green onions, thinly sliced

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons olive oil

For the garlic aioli:

¾ cup cashew pieces, soaked for 4 to 8 hours

1 clove garlic

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

salt and pepper to taste

Combine the water, cauliflower, and carrots in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook for 4 minutes, then drain well. Place the cauliflower and carrots on a few layers of paper towels and pat dry. Transfer to a cutting board and finely chop. Place the chopped veggies in a large bowl; add flour and stir to coat. Fold in the cheese, salt, pepper, green onions, and egg.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat, swirling to coat. Put the fritter mixture into the skillet ¼ cup at a time, using a spatula to flatten each fritter into shape. Cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes, then carefully flip over and cook for about 4 minutes more. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to absorb excess oil, if needed.

To make the aioli, drain and rinse the cashews. Combine the cashews, garlic, lemon juice, paprika, and ¼ cup water in a blender and blend until smooth. If needed, add additional water 1 tablespoon at a time. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with the fritters.

Zucchini and Carrot Fritters
with Yogurt Mint-Dip

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

from The NewYork Times

submitted by Anne Halsted

preparation time: 1 hour

makes 3 dozen small fritters

1 cup all-purpose flour, more as needed

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon coriander

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, more for serving

1 cup milk, more as needed

1 large egg

¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest

¼ teaspoon pepper

2 large carrots, grated (about 1½ cups)

1 large zucchini, grated (about 2 cups)

2 scallions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons chopped mint

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

olive oil for frying

To make the batter for the fritters, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, coriander and ½ teaspoon salt. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the milk, egg, lemon zest and pepper.

Pour dry ingredients into wet; whisk until just blended (do not overmix). Batter should be slightly thicker than cream. If it’s too thick, add some milk; if it’s too thin, sprinkle with additional flour. Stir in the carrots, zucchini and scallions. Allow to rest for 30 minutes.

To make the yogurt dip, using a mortar and pestle or the back of a kitchen knife, mash together the garlic and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic paste, yogurt, mint and 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Fill a wide saucepan with 1 inch of olive oil; heat until the temperature registers 375 degrees F on a deep fry thermometer (or until a small drip of batter browns immediately). Line a cookie sheet with paper towels. Working in batches, drop battered vegetables by the tablespoon into the oil, being sure not to overcrowd the pan. Fry, turning occasionally, until golden all over, about 3 to 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer fritters to the cookie sheet to drain. Transfer fritters to a platter or plate. Sprinkle with salt and serve with yogurt dip.

These are great as a dinner side dish or brunch dish. The yogurt-mint dip really makes the fritters – a wonderful balance.

Moqueca with Cashew Coconut Rice

David Prince for Elle Decor

from Daniel Boulud

submitted by Julie Christensen

preparation time: 90 minutes

serves 6

For the moqueca:

5 tablespoons dendé oil (palm oil)

1 inch piece of ginger, grated

6 garlic cloves, 2 grated and 4 minced

1 small Fresno chili, thinly sliced (when I can’t find one, I add a bit of Sriracha)

1 bunch cilantro, stems reserved, leaves roughly chopped

½ pound shrimp, shelled and deveined

1½ pounds tilapia (Boulud calls for monkfish, I prefer tilapia – holds up perfectly) cut into 1” cubes

½ pound squid, cleaned and rinsed, body cut into ½ inch rings

3 tablespoons butter

1 red onion, thinly sliced

4 red and yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut into ½ inch wide strips

salt and ground white pepper

¼ cup white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons flour

1 15 ounce can unsweetened coconut milk

2 large beefsteak tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped

3 5-inch stalks of hearts of palm, thinly sliced

2 limes, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges for garnish

For the cashew rice:

2 tablespoons olive oil

¾ cup chopped unsalted cashews

ground white pepper

¾ cup toasted coconut flakes

1 cup basmati rice, cooked

For the moqueca: Combine the dendé oil, ginger, grated garlic, Fresno chili, and half of the chopped cilantro leaves and mix well. Add the shrimp, tilapia and squid and mix gently until the seafood is well coated. Marinate for 30 minutes.

In a 5-quart braising pan, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion and sauté for 5 minutes, then add the minced garlic and bell peppers. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes. Add the vinegar and continue cooking until it is reduced, and the pan is nearly dry. Add flour and cook for 5 minutes. Add coconut milk and chopped tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Season with salt. Tie the cilantro stems together with twine and add to the stew. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the marinated seafood, stir and reduce the heat to very low. Cover and cook for 20 minutes, until the seafood is gently poached. Remove the cilantro stems. Add the hearts of palm and lime juice, and taste for seasoning. Serve over cashew rice garnished with the reserved chopped cilantro and lime wedges.

For the rice: heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, add the cashews and cook, stirring, until toasted and fragrant. Add the cooked rice and stir to combine. Season with salt and white pepper. Toss in the toasted coconut. Serve hot.

Some of my favorite new recipes this year were from Daniel Boulud. This one, his take on a Brazilian Bahian seafood stew, is just the best ever. Cioppino doesn’t stand a chance against the moqueca’s coconut/lime/ginger/chili wonderfulness. The recipe is full of treasure hunt-like ingredients and it is complicated – but not difficult. Summon up your kitchen zen on a long, lazy, quiet afternoon, go calmly through the steps and then prepare for an outpouring of pleasure and gratitude. The moqueca is a labor of love but, like many such labors, so worth it.

Rhubarb Rice Pilaf

submitted by Isabel Wade

Serves 4 to 6

¼ cup almonds
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped sweet onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups chopped rhubarb (de-string if needed)
½ cup white wine
½ cup golden raisins
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon Cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 cup cooked wild rice
1 cup cooked long-grain white rice

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Spread almonds onto a baking sheet and toast until golden and fragrant, 7 to 10 minutes.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté onion until just
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Mix rhubarb into onion and garlic and sauté until slightly softened, about 2 minutes more.

Stir white wine, raisins, cinnamon and Cayenne pepper into rhubarb mixture; cover the skillet with a lid, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until rhubarb is tender to the bite but still firm, 5 to 8 minutes. Add honey and soy sauce; stir.

Mix wild rice and white rice into the rhubarb mixture; cook and stir until rice is heated through.

Roasted Beef Tenderloin with
Sherry Vinaigrette and Watercress

MICHAEL FALCONER

from Bon Appetit, April 2004

submitted by Kathy Lindenbaum

preparation time: 20 minutes

serves 6

6 tablespoons olive oil, divided

2¼ pounds beef tenderloin (from the thick end)

1½ teaspoons coarse kosher salt

2 teaspoons coarsely ground mixed peppercorns

1 cup sherry wine vinegar

1 tablespoon coarse Dijon mustard

¼ cup chopped shallots

1 large bunch watercress

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F.

Rub 1 tablespoon olive oil into beef and then rub the kosher salt and ground mixed pepper. Place beef on a small rimmed baking sheet and roast 10 minutes.

Reduce heat to 450 degrees and roast until thermometer registers 125 degrees for medium rare, about 15 minutes more. Remove from oven and let meat stand 5 minutes for internal temperature to reach 5 to 10 degrees higher.

Whisk remaining olive oil, vinegar, and mustard in a small bowl. Stir in shallots and more salt and pepper to taste.

Arrange watercress on a platter, cut meat into ½ inch-thick slices and arrange overlapping slices atop the watercress. Drizzle any accumulated juices over meat and spoon half of the vinaigrette down the center of the meat and over the watercress. Serve any remaining vinaigrette separately.

Pan-Roasted Chicken with
Honey-Thyme-Cider Vinegar Drizzle

Photo: Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle

adapted from the San Francisco Chronicle

submitted by Jeanne Milligan

preparation time: 45 minutes

serves 4

For the drizzle sauce (can be made ahead):

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup finely diced shallots

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

¾ cup apple cider vinegar, divided

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

½ cup honey

2 teaspoons spicy brown mustard

For the chicken:

4 airline chicken breasts with skin (see below)

Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

For the sauce: Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot and bubbly, add the shallot and cook until soft and translucent, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the thyme and stir to combine. Increase heat to high and add ½ cup of the vinegar, cook until reduced by about half. Add the chicken broth and honey, cook until the sauce has reduced enough so that it looks slightly syrupy and very lightly coats the back of a spoon about 10 minutes. Don’t reduce the sauce too much because it will thicken slightly as it cooks. Whisk in the mustard. Remove from heat and set aside. If making ahead, set aside or refrigerate, reheat when roasting the chicken.

For the chicken: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and generously season with salt and pepper. Pour the olive oil into a large, oven-proof skillet, place over high heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, place chicken breasts skin side down and sear until the skin is a rich, deep brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the chicken skin side up. Then place the pan in the oven and roast about 10 to 15 minutes until the chicken is cooked through (about 165 degrees on an instant-read-thermometer). Transfer to a large platter; keep warm until ready to serve.

To finish: Drain any excess fat from the chicken skillet; place the skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, pour in the remaining ¼ cup vinegar; cook, stirring and scraping up any flavorful brown bits from the bottom of the pan. When the mixture has reduced slightly, remove the skillet from heat and whisk the contents into the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The sauce can be served warm or room temperature. Drizzle some sauce over each chicken breast and serve.

Airline chicken breast is a cut of breast meat that includes the attached drumette portion of the wing. If you can’t find airline chicken breasts, substitute regular boneless, skin-on chicken breasts.

Sheet-Pan Chicken with
Sweet Potatoes and Peppers

Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

submitted by Jeanne Milligan

adapted from The New York Times

preparation time: 40 minutes+ marinating

serves 3 to 4

2 pounds bone-in, skin-on, chicken thighs (4 to 6 thighs)

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1½ teaspoons honey

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced and divided

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed

1 or 2 cloves garlic, grated or minced

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

12 ounces sweet potato (1 large), peeled, and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 large red, yellow or orange bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced

1½ tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

¾ tablespoons sweet paprika

⅛ teaspoon Cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

cilantro leaves, for serving

In a small, shallow bowl, mix together vinegar and honey. Mix in half the red onion and a pinch of salt and set aside for garnish, tossing the mixture occasionally as the chicken cooks.

In a large bowl, mix together 1 teaspoon salt, garlic, coriander and black pepper. Add chicken to bowl and rub the mixture all over it. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 425 degrees F. In a large bowl, toss together 2 tablespoons oil, sweet potato, pepper, remaining half of the onion, sage, remaining ½ teaspoon salt, paprika, Cayenne and allspice. Spread vegetables out on a rimmed baking sheet.

Add remaining ½ tablespoon oil to marinated chicken and turn to coat. Place chicken pieces, skin-side up, among the vegetables, making sure chicken is surrounded by, but not on top of the vegetables. (Chicken should rest directly on the baking sheet.) Roast for 15 minutes.

Remove pan from oven and raise heat to 450 degrees. Use a wide spatula to flip vegetables over the (but not chicken). Drizzle chicken (but not vegetables) with 2 teaspoons liquid from the onion-vinegar mixture. Roast until chicken is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes longer.

To serve, top chicken and vegetables with a spoonful of onion-vinegar mixture and plenty of cilantro leaves.

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Wednesday, December 25, 2019